Chikankari is more than embroidery — it is a living art form, a centuries-old tradition woven into the cultural fabric of Lucknow. If you've ever run your fingers over the delicate white threadwork on a fine muslin kurti and felt something timeless, you've experienced chikankari. Here is the story behind this extraordinary craft.
The Origins of Chikankari
Chikankari is believed to have been introduced to India during the Mughal era, with many historians crediting Nur Jahan, the empress consort of Emperor Jahangir, with popularising the art form in the 17th century. The word "chikankari" is thought to derive from the Persian word chikan, meaning embroidery on fabric.
Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, became the heartland of chikankari under Nawabi patronage. The Nawabs of Awadh were great connoisseurs of art and culture, and chikankari flourished under their refined tastes — adorning the garments of royalty and nobility alike.
The Craft: How Chikankari is Made
Creating a single chikankari garment is a labour of love that passes through many skilled hands:
- Block printing: The design is first printed onto the fabric using wooden blocks dipped in a washable blue dye. This serves as the guide for the embroiderer.
- Embroidery: Skilled karigar (artisans) — mostly women working from their homes in and around Lucknow — stitch the design by hand using fine needles and white thread. A single piece can take days or even weeks to complete.
- Washing: The finished piece is washed to remove the blue dye, revealing the pure white embroidery on the fabric.
- Finishing: The garment is inspected, pressed, and prepared for sale.
The entire process is almost entirely handmade, which is why authentic chikankari carries such intrinsic value.
The 32 Stitches of Chikankari
What makes chikankari truly remarkable is its vocabulary of stitches — traditionally said to number 32 distinct stitches, each with its own name, technique, and visual effect. Some of the most iconic include:
- Tepchi: A long running stitch, the most basic and widely used
- Bakhiya (Shadow work): Stitched on the reverse side, creating a shadow effect visible from the front — one of the most distinctive chikankari techniques
- Murri: A tiny knot stitch that creates raised, grain-like dots
- Phanda: Similar to murri but smaller and more rounded
- Jali: An open lattice work created by pulling threads apart — incredibly delicate and prized
- Zanzeera: A chain stitch used for outlines and borders
Each stitch requires years of practice to master, and the finest karigar are celebrated for their precision and speed.
Chikankari Motifs: The Language of the Craft
Traditional chikankari motifs draw from the natural world and Mughal design vocabulary:
- Flowers: Roses, lotuses, and stylised blooms are the most common motifs
- Leaves and vines: Flowing creepers and leaf patterns fill spaces between floral motifs
- Paisleys (Keri): The iconic teardrop shape, a staple of Mughal design
- Geometric patterns: Used in borders and jali work
- Birds and butterflies: Occasionally featured in more elaborate pieces
Chikankari Today: Tradition Meets Contemporary Fashion
While chikankari's roots are deeply traditional, the craft has evolved beautifully with modern fashion. Today you'll find chikankari on:
- Classic white-on-white kurtis and sets — the timeless original
- Coloured fabrics with tone-on-tone embroidery for a contemporary look
- Ombre and gradient fabrics with chikankari detailing
- Modern silhouettes like palazzo sets, gharara sets, and anarkalis
- Premium fabrics like modal satin alongside traditional mulmul
This adaptability is why chikankari has not just survived but thrived — it speaks to women who want to wear something beautiful, meaningful, and made by hand.
How to Identify Authentic Chikankari
- Look at the reverse: Authentic hand chikankari shows neat, consistent stitching on the back of the fabric.
- Feel the texture: Hand embroidery has a slight irregularity that machine work cannot replicate — this is its beauty, not a flaw.
- Check the motifs: Hand-done motifs have a natural flow and slight variation. Machine embroidery looks perfectly uniform and flat.
- The price: Genuine hand chikankari takes significant time and skill — if the price seems too low, it is likely machine-made.
Explore Our Chikankari Collections
At Alfaz Chikankari, every piece we offer celebrates this extraordinary tradition. Explore our collections:
- Modal Chikankari — luxuriously soft, perfect for festive and wedding occasions
- Palazzo Sets — elegant chikankari sets for every occasion
- Gharara Sets — traditional silhouettes with exquisite embroidery
- Anarkali — flowing anarkali styles with beautiful chikankari work
- Premium Kurtis — everyday and festive kurtis in fine chikankari
When you wear chikankari, you carry with you centuries of artistry, the skill of countless hands, and the spirit of Lucknow. That is what makes it truly special.